Tuesday, February 20, 2018

The Olympics Addendum Part IX: Leaving Korea

After Seoul, we headed back to Daejeon, where we wandered the city, and saw old friends. We even had lunch with my professor from KAIST, who is doing well. Then at 4AM, we boarded the bus to Incheon, got on a plane and headed back. Trans-pacific airplane rides are long, but they treat us well. The flight includes two full meals, and they give us slippers, pillows, blankets, tooth brushes, and a really sore backside.

This trip was a good chance to look back and appreciate what we learned from our adventure back in 2011-2013. Korean life is natural enough for us to get by without much worry, and we were able to enjoy this trip in a deeper way because we knew how to get around. I found out that I can read at a 1st grade level, which is a big accomplishment for me, because I’m pretty sure I talk like a toddler. The thing that was the most fun was being able to talk to all the people who don’t normally speak English, which is the big payout of language learning. I’ll probably never make it past 5th grade in Korea, but if I do, there’s no stopping.

East Asia’s differences reminded me that conventional wisdom is often just a mental shortcut, and there are often several ways to do things. It was really fun to encounter stuff I thought were bizarre back in 2011, but now find familiar and comfortable. We got to eat lots of fermented  food, sleep on the floor, eschew chairs, and wash dishes in sinks without drain stoppers.  (Prior to yesterday, I never knew why I washed dishes so strangely. It turns out that I was just doing it the Korean way without knowing. I think it does a better job too).


We were free from cars for two weeks, and replaced them with subways, buses, bullet trains and airplanes. We got to cross streams on stepping stones that would be considered too tall for safety, walk down the middle of streets with no sidewalks,  eat squid jerky, wander downtown at 4AM, walk along sheets of ice on sidewalks, and various other activities that would rattle American sensibilities. We got to see old friends, and even meet some new ones.  It was basically a 2 week long party.  We loved it!

Some funny guys at Jinbu Station
Note: many comedians dress in the old style for skits, but why does the dude on the right have his hoodie tucked in?

Until next time, this is Riley, signing out
-//-/   //

Monday, February 19, 2018

The Olympic Addendum Part VIII: Party buses!


The Olympic arenas are on the other side of town, so we have to ride the bus to get there. The Koreans have provided free bus service throughout the area for the Olympics, which is a big plus.  The buses for the Olympics are from across the land, even as far south as Jeju Island. We haven’t seen any Japanese or Chinese buses however.

The charter buses in Korea are pimped out with bling.  When we first got here back in 2011, I thought the bling was silly and dumb, but now the buses have grown on me.   For a while, buses were used as moving Norae Bang (Karoke) rooms, until the practice was banned approximately 10 years ago, for rather obvious reasons.


Dongsaeng Gangwon Style! (Courtesy of Oppa John)

Another example of a bus with bling

Sunday, February 18, 2018

The Olympics Part VII: Beth, Seoul and Brein Tarkington


After departing our pension, we met up with Margaret's cousin, Beth, her fiance, George in the morning, and traveled to Seoul.  That night we met up with Brein Tarkington, and his wife Crystal (hopefully I spelled names correctly).  In the interim, we went to the top of the newly built Lotte World Tower, over 120 stories tall, approximately as high as One World Trade Center.  I’m not sure if N Korea was visible from on a clear day, but it is not unimaginable.  It was really beautiful.  Knowing Seoul some made it more enjoyable, especially with all the surrounding mountains. The next day, we got up, sent John and Laura on the train to Incheon Airport, and departed to head back down south to Daejeon to meet up with Ashely.  

The tall tall tower (5th tallest in world)

View to the west
View to the North. I wonder what's behind the haze...

The planning team at the end of a successful trip


Saturday, February 17, 2018

The Olympics Addendum Part VI: Our Pension

The place we stayed in Gangneung is a type of bed and breakfast known as a pension.  I’m not sure where the name originated from, but it may have to do with pensioners (retirees) tending to go on vacation a lot. The room we were in was a blue room with a loft with a bed that John and Laura slept in. It being Korea and all, the floors were kept nice and warm with hot water, so we slept on the more traditional style cushioned floor mat, called a Yo. This suited us well. However, I (Riley) kept waking up at 3AM due to jet lag.  Going home is going to be rough…

The proprietors of the pension we’re at are super friendly. Having never stayed at a pension before, we didn’t know what to expect. Similar to many Korean services, the customers were treated extremely well.  During our 8 night stay, we got 3 free rides, a set of 4 Olympic souvenir towels, 2 liters of complementary beverages, and 4 little Korean dolls that we may convert to refrigerator magnets. We mostly communicated in Korean, which is a bit unusual, since most everyone is keen on English here, but for the hard words, our hosts had a voice translation app on their phones. (I actually think our voices are part of the English training dataset for the translator’s AI, since we participated in a voice recording study  in Korea way back in 2012 [or 13?] for such an app.)
View from Riley + Margaret's floor mat

Our pension was complete with a kitchenette, and mini-fridge. There was no washing machine, so Laura, our heroine did the clothes for us in the sink, and we dried them indoors, which worked well. Breakfast tended to alternate between kim-bap (California rolls), eggs, fruit & yogurt and sweets—no squid soup. This is the Airbnb posting.  I was sad to leave.

Wednesday, February 14, 2018

The Olympic Addendum Part V: The actual Olympics

Due to popular demand, I am obliged to document the real reason we are here: the Olympics! I'll defer to John's Blog for more/better pictures. We went to six events that are listed below. Let’s begin.

Ski jumping qualifier

The first event we saw was ski jumping.  It was amazing how far those guys flew.  It was cold, but not too cold.  For more on that, see our brother John's blog. Between rounds, about 10 people on skis re-conditioned the landing area, which is steeply sloped. To deal with this, the skiers staggered themselves, so if one began falling down the slope, they wouldn’t hit people below them like dominoes. Ski jumping is a sight to behold.

Carefully reconditioning the ski jumping landing area

Snowboarding qualifier

The next day, we spent watching the last snowboard jump. The snowboard course is so long that it is hard to watch the entire thing. It was really cold, so we went inside for a while. As with ski jumping, snowboarding course is about a 1.5 hour long trip up into the mountains. During the bus rides, I try and learn more Korea, but I’m unsure if I’ll ever finish. Heck, I’m still learning English, and I’m 30.  John discovered the wonders of Pork Buns (known as Ho-Bbang here).  He also learned about the wonders of Korean pricing. These guys don’t gouge you the way Americans do. 85 cents for a bottle of water inside the secure zone?  HECK 
YEAH!

Biathlon

Event 3 was biathlon.  Again, it was a bus ride up to the top of a cold mountain. For those not “in the know” like myself immediately prior to the event, biathlon consists of skiing and shooting.  The course consists of a 2500m cross-country circuit and a rifle range. We watched a 10km biathlon, so the players took 4 laps. When they completed a lap, they would go to the rifle range, and shoot at targets, and for every target they missed they would take a penalty loop around a ~100m penalty ring.  There were 85 skiers, each individually timed, staggered at ~30 second intervals, so keeping track of the progress was impossible, but it was a sight to behold.

Foreground: the biathlon track, Background, shooting range, Right: a portion of the penalty loop


Luge

The next night, we went up the mountain to the bob sled track, and watched the luge. Like all previous events aside from ski jumping, the entire track was not in view. For me the best part was getting to shout the names of various countries as the sleds went by at some awful speed. The only sad thing was that someone crashed (not too badly) in front of us.  We didn’t see the start of it, but her sled started wobbling, hit the wall, and a skate broke off from it, and she skidded to a stop. She seemed fine and walked off the track, but it was not clear if she was injury free.

Hockey

Most recently, we watched the US Women’s hockey team mop the floor with those poor athletes from Russia. It seemed like a hollow victory given that in all likelihood, half the Russian team got banned for the doping scandal.  It was fun to see hockey for the first time in a decade. I sat next to a Korean college student, and we taught him and his buds some of the basics of the game.  They don’t play hockey much in Korea.  Word has it that the United Korea team only got to practice together for two weeks, and that’s why they fell apart when they played Switzerland a few nights ago.  The North Koreans are unfortunately not allowed to talk too much.  We have not knowingly seen any either.

Face off!

Dutch brass band, complete with wooden shoes

Curling

On our last full day in Gangneung, we went and watched curling. We learned a thing or two about it before going.  For instance, the ice isn’t smooth, it has been sprayed with water droplets to make a bumpy surface. Also, the players have one shoe that slides and one that does not. I can’t help but think they get very lopsided that way, so perhaps they switch sides every so often. A point is awarded to the team who slides their stone as close to the center of the target as possible. The overall strategy is to try and knock the other team’s stones away from the “bull’s eye,” blocking the other teams stones, and getting their own stones as close to the bullseye as possible.

Curling is fun to watch because it is subdued like golf, but lacks all the icky business stuff that seems associated with golf. You can see all four games at once so if one gets slow, you can watch another one.  In the games we watched, there was a US vs Japan game, where Japan beat us pretty badly.  After curling there were some pretty serious wind gusts, so we went to find shelter outside the Olympic park, which had too many tents. We wound up eating some KFC (Korean Fried Chicken).  I told the people there that it tasted better than Kentucky Fried Chicken, and I meant it. Korean versions of American fast/junk food just taste better, because they aren’t loaded with as much starch/sugar/fat. Coke is drunk out of shot glasses for instance.

A highlight of the competition was Chosun guards leading in the teams.

We’ll keep posting about our Gangneung for a while even though we have moved on, since we’ve gotten a bit behind.  Cheers!

The Olympic Addendum Part IV: Gangneung, the place where we are staying.

We made it to the city where we are staying for the games without a hitch. We got to the KTX station, and the owner and proprietor of our pension (think cheaper version of bed and breakfast) picked us up at the station. He and his wife speak little English, but are incredibly nice.  Upon arrival, we were given a tour of the place, and then unpacked.  As we were settling in, the lady of the house provided us with a plate of dumplings, which were delicious.

Many of the indoor Olympic events are being held in Gangneung. It could be said that Gangneung is pronounced GawngLung, so I’m curious what those Olympic announcers are saying.  This almost caused trouble for us ourselves because I read the English spelling so much so that I ordered ticket for “Gangneung” and got tickets for the next station down the line, “Gangmyeon.”  Luckily we noticed, and promptly exchanged them.

A view of the city from a hill above Gyeongpo

The city on the East coast of South Korea, and features a beautiful lake. We are on the far side of the lake in the district of Gyeongpo, which is a tourist destination.  In true Korean form, the water feature is surrounded by landscaped parks and green ways. The parks in Korea are one of the best things, especially because they can be used as transportation pathways for things like your daily commute.  In America, one must go out of one’s way to visit a park. The upstream portion of the lake contains a marsh with a large population of prickly water lilies, which appear to be somehow unique, and give the park its name. Being winter, we had to fill in some blanks with imagination, since nothing was in bloom. Elsewhere in the park were a series of statues depicting what appeared to be some kind of mythical spirits, or a traditional story, completely unknown to us.  I’ll probably edit this later to give you all more pictures, and links to Korean blogs with better summer pictures.

Margaret and the lake
We are on the other side of the lake from Gangneung, next to a temple complex in the Gyeongpo district, which has paintings of the area back in the 1700s, when the lake was much higher. They are painted in the traditional Korean style. Since then, some genius visionaries decided that draining the lake partially would be good idea.  However this had the unfortunate side effect of creating an unhealthy wetland that smelled terrible.  Given that there was no way to fill the lake back up, they decided to bring in some folks who knew what they were doing. The fix was to facilitate the growth of a healthy marsh land, which has attracted an array of Korean wildlife, including egrets, night herons, grey herons, mandarin ducks, spot billed ducks, coots, and more. It appears the distinguishing feature of this place is the prickly water lily, for which the park is named.  Being a swamp girl, this was Margaret’s favorite part.
A shrine in Geyongpo, dedicated to an event that took place in the 5th century. Distinct from the temple.

Monday, February 12, 2018

It's Daejeon!

We said goodbye to Kevin and Lucy, and proceeded to our former home, Daejeon. We stayed with our friend Ashely, who is also an English Teacher. Ashely has recently been hooked up with a mission organization to teach Syrian refugees somewhere in Europe, which is very exciting.

Ashely took us out to dinner with Mijin, Kim Sujin, his wife Sophia, and their daughter Ga-un.  Kim Sujin is an unofficial ambassador of South Korea.  When he was in university, he studied abroad in Oklahoma, which is a go-to destination for English language learners. His host family was from the beloved island of Puerto Rico, which has been the victim of misfortune lately.  The Puerto Ricans of Oklahoma, treated Sujin very well, and were unofficial ambassadors of the US, showing him the best America has to offer.  Since then, Sujin has made it his work to welcome foreigners to Korea in much the same way. When we were very new to S Korea, Sujin took us to Gangwando, the province where the Olympics are being held, and we learned how Koreans have fun on family vacations, and got to see the amazing foraging skills that his aunts had retained from harder times.  We had some delicious wild mushrooms and wild caught fish on that trip (post here). On that trip, I was also served Korean spicy soup—the hottest thing I’ve ever eaten and actually liked.  I've ordered this at some resturaunts, but I think they gave me the milder version formulated especially for the Western palette (or my taste buds had been thoroughly burned off by that point.) 


The next day after reuniting with our old associates, we were able to get out and see a bit of Daejeon. We have some pictures below. Then, we departed for Ganglung for the Olympics.

Image may contain: 8 people, people smiling, people sitting and food
Dinner with old friends

The famous Expo Bridge


Margaret under a random bridge in Daejeon

Stepping stones across the Gapcheon river. Don't fall in :-)